I first met chef Keith Froggett in a forest. He was taking part in a fundraising event at Michael Stadtländer’s Eigensinn Farm, and what stood out for me, apart from the excellence of the roasted quail on a potato galette that he’d cooked over an open fire, was that he’d gone to the trouble of setting up a small stereo and was listening to the Dave Brubeck Quartet’s “Take Five”. I knew right away he was my kind of chef.