There are many reasons to like John Sleeman, and to really like the company’s products. But, what exactly is the difference between a mass-produced beer of any description and a micro-brew, and a premium beer? Beer is at its quality peak just after brewing, when the foam has just settled on the keg.

Misfits and misanthropes are lined up around the block. The queue of fans waiting to meet him snakes out of the record store and along the downtown street. Some clutch digital cameras, others bear roses to offer and albums to have him sign. All hope to shake his hand, smile at him, softly say they love him; share stories about …